Medieval Remains: Stone and Mosaic Work of the Duomo di Salerno, Site of the Relics of St. Matthew

Polychrome stonework has to be one of the highlights of any church architecture for me, particularly when it is of the early medieval variety and attached to balustrades, ambone, paschal candlesticks and the like. These are typically today seen as architectural remnants, preserved for their great beauty and artistry, but otherwise surrounded by art and architecture from successive centuries.  There is nothing wrong with this of course, it is perfectly natural in fact. Any building that stands long enough will see such things happen. 

The Duomo di Salerno was built between the years 1080-1085 and is located in Salerno of course, which itself is located in the southern part of mainland Italy. Due to its location, it falls into the part of Italy which was once heavily under auspices of Byzantine and Normal political and artistic influence. This mixture of influences in this part of Italy always makes for interesting artistic and architectural fare. The case of the Duomo di Salerno (or, properly speaking, the Cattedrale Primaziale Metropolitana di Santa Maria degli Angeli, San Matteo e San Gregorio VII), is no different. 

Externally we see a classic Roman style basilica with a forecourt. In many ways, it is reminiscent of the Old St. Peter's built by Constantine in Rome. 



The monumental, main bronze doors of the Duomo were forged in Constantinople and shown scenes from the life of Christ, so already we have been greeting by Roman and Byzantine influences and we haven't yet even begun to explore the interior:


In terms of that interior, much of it has been updated in successive ages, showing a more baroque influence, some of which was stripped away in the early twentieth century to reveal the earlier medieval foundations of the building.

Here you can see some of the earlier medieval interior of the building revealed:


One cannot but wonder what this church must have looked like in its original form. However, even with all the later baroque coverings in place, one can still find some absolutely remarkable bits of in-tact medieval work from the earlier Italo-Byzantine tradition.  It is this remaining stonework that made me want to feature this cathedral as it is absolutely spectacular in form and design. 


The two pieces that immediately jump out are the two ambos located to the left and right of the transept crossing. From here the epistle and gospel would be chanted, and the homily proclaimed. One will also note the grand Paschal candlestick.



We fortunately also have some further photos which were kindly provided to us by way of Fr. Ilya Gotlinsky of Orthodox Tours . These show further some of the beautiful historic stonework that can still be found in the cathedral, including within the sanctuary itself which still retains the medieval character of the original building.

Photo credit: Ilya Gotlinsky of Orthodox Tours

Detail of the paschal candlestick.
Photo credit: Ilya Gotlinsky of Orthodox Tours

The ambo from whence the gospel is proclaimed.
Photo credit: Ilya Gotlinsky of Orthodox Tours

Detail of the paschal candlestick.
Photo credit: Ilya Gotlinsky of Orthodox Tours

In addition to these incredible stoneworks, we also yet still can find some of the beautiful mosaics of the medieval cathedral in all of their Italo-Byzantine glory. 

St. Matthew surrounded by St. Fortunatus, St. John the Evangelist, St. James and St. Laurence. Above, the archangel Michael. 
Photo credit: Ilya Gotlinsky of Orthodox Tours

Detail of St. Fortunatus and St. John the Evangelist.
Photo credit: Ilya Gotlinsky of Orthodox Tours

Detail of St. Matthew
Photo credit: Ilya Gotlinsky of Orthodox Tours

It must be said that the quality of these mosaics is simply outstanding. 

But if all that isn't outstanding enough, I would be remiss to not mention that this is the site of the tomb of St. Matthew, brought here in the year 954 and located within the crypt church:


This, of course, is the primary attraction of the Duomo di Salerno.

Here, briefly, are some other views of the crypt church which contains the relics of other saints as well. It is characterized by its rich, polychromatic opus sectile stone decoration coming from the baroque era. 

Photo credit: Ilya Gotlinsky of Orthodox Tours

Photo credit: Ilya Gotlinsky of Orthodox Tours

Two reliquaries. Photo credit: Ilya Gotlinsky of Orthodox Tours

As with so many cathedrals and basilicas in this part of the world, there's simply too much to show. There's plenty in the cathedral of baroque interest, particularly where the various side altars (and crypt) are concerned, but it is the earlier Italo-Byzantine remnants that particularly draw my attention to this church; that and the relics of St. Matthew of course. 

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