Festal and Floral: Further Examples of Polychrome Floral Motifs in Vestment Work

It seems that I cannot let an Easter season (or spring or summer season generally) go by without taking an opportunity to once again promote a specific type  of vestment design which I find both approrpiately 'seasonal' in look and feel, and certainly festal in nature. I am, of course, talking about the tradition of white vestments ornamented with polychrome vegetal motifs. 

The particular copes I have selected today are one's which stood out to me for reason of the nobility of their design, as well as the particular beauty of their colour palette.  What you will obviously see here is that I tend to favour the more subtle, pastel palette of the eighteenth and early nineteenth century. The reason for this is simply that, by contrast with later nineteenth century examples which tended toward a darker, Victorian palette, the colours you will see here are both more subtle (so as not to overwhelm the senses), they pair better with the white silk ground they are found upon, and finally, they simply feel more 'festal' somehow. "De gustibus" as they say, but over the years, I continue to come back to this same conclusion.

Here are some examples of the type of thing to which I refer.


Now, if a fully embroidered cope seems out of reach (or perhaps simply 'too much' for your own taste), a pleasing variant on this type of design sees only the shield and the orphrey column of the cope so embroidered, with the main body of the cope being otherwise of plain silk.  You do not see these as often, but here is a good example of this type of design which, as you'll see, still retains all of these same aforementioned qualities. 
If the late nineteenth and twentieth century trend toward the inclusion of specific symbols is more to your liking, there's a pathway here as well. Here is an example of this same type of cope design, but in this instance, it also includes the Agnus Dei within the shield, showing how these two 'types' can indeed be successfully combined. 


So what does one do if you like this style, but you simply cannot obtain a cope such as this, whether newly made or antique?  Embroidery, after all, is not inexpensive, even when it is machine embroidery (as most embroidery today is). Quite simply, you dispense with the embroidery alotgether and opt instead for a beautiful silk lampas fabric which utilities similar designs in similar colours woven in it.  

Examples such as these abound, but in a nutshell were talking about something like this:



If this route seems the 'lesser' of the two paths somehow, perhaps it would help to point out that while embroidery is perhaps the more highly valued art today, historically embroidery would have been considered the lesser of these two options -- a short-cut or workaround to speak in the absence of a fully loomed silk design. If that surprises you, one must keep in mind that the perceived value of something is often tied to the time and difficulty put into obtaining it, and while in earlier centuries most anyone could sit down with a needle and thread and start to impart a design onto something, investing in and obtaining fully loomed silks designs was a substantially more difficult and time-consuming investment.  So, in short, it's all a matter of perspective.  Both options are equally noble and pleasing so long as the quality and nobility of materials is there. 

If you're a parish priest or a sacristan, I'd invite you to consider picking up at least one such set as we are discussing here, be it for the Easter season or be it for Marian feasts. 

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